surfing life #4 Live Like Jay

I’ve been doing other stuff, so, I haven’t posted anything for a while, but the weather here is beautiful summer heat, sun and it just screams beach!!!

jay-moriarty.jpg

I love the sea and yeah – I’m dreaming about it and wishing myself away from the city – not the tame Port Phillip Bay beach near where I live, but – something wilder and a bit more remote.

So it’s perfect timing to write a post about surfing and a pretty special guy called Jay Moriarty.

Jay was a passionate surfer and a beautiful spirit. He died when he was just 22 years old. Not surfing, but free diving in the Maldives.

Jay was a Maverick’s surfer. His early life was dramatised in the film, ‘Chasing Mavericks’ [2012]. The film focused on his mentor relationship with Frosty Hesson [played by Gerard Butler] and his bid at 15 to surf that hideously gnarly wave, Maverick’s in California.

So, what does ‘Live Like Jay’ mean? The slogan came after his death and means different things to different people. 

16mm film Cokes break , Maldives : charliekinross@gmail.com www.charliekinrosscameraman.com A tribute to Jay Moriarity. Other footage from other cameramen and locations including Mavericks in California also .

Jay’s wife, Kim Moriarty who set up a foundation in Jay’s memory [http://www.jaymoriarityfoundation.org], says this:

“People will forget what you say and do, but they will never forget how you made them feel. Jay touched so many people and he tried to leave everywhere he went just a little bit better. When people were around him, they felt the love and sincerity. Jay used to love to look for the gnarliest looking person he could find, make eye contact with them and smile. He came from a place of love in his heart and would use it to break down barriers with other people. ‘Live Like Jay’ doesn’t mean you have to be a tough, big-wave surfer. Jay knew that, even for him, that would eventually end. It means find out what you’re here for and follow it. Be true to yourself and treat others well.”  [source: http://www.surfermag.com/features/live-like-jay/]